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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.